Near‐bed sediment transport during offshore bar migration in large‐scale experiments

Abstract : This paper presents novel insights into hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes in large-scale laboratory experiments with bichromatic wave groups on a relatively steep initial beach slope (1:15). An Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler provided detailed information of velocity and sand concentration near the bed from shoaling up to the outer breaking zone including suspended sediment and sheet flow transport. The morphological evolution was characterized by offshore migration of the outer breaker bar. Decomposition of the total net transport revealed a balance of onshore-directed, short wave-related and offshore-directed, current-related net transport. The short wave-related transport mainly occurred as bedload over small vertical extents. It was linked to characteristic intrawave sheet flow layer expansions during short wave crests. The current-related transport rate featured lower maximum flux magnitudes but occurred over larger vertical extents. As a result, it was larger than the short wave-related transport rate in all but one cross-shore position, driving the bar’s offshore migration. Net flux magnitudes of the infragravity component were comparatively low but played a non-negligible role for total net transport rate in certain cross-shore positions. Net infragravity flux profiles sometimes featured opposing directions over the vertical. The fluxes were linked to a standing infragravity wave pattern and to the correlation of the short wave envelope, controlling suspension, with the infragravity wave velocity.