Statistics of long-crested extreme waves in single and mixed sea states

Lei Wang , Jinxuan Li , Shuxue Liu , Guillaume Ducrozet (1)

1 LHEEA - Laboratoire de recherche en Hydrodynamique, Énergétique et Environnement Atmosphérique

Most of the studies on extreme waves are focused on the systems with single-peak wave spectra. However, according to the statistics of occurrence, the bimodal spectral system is also frequent in real sea conditions. In order to summarize the statistics of extreme waves, irregular wave trains under single-peak and bimodal spectra for long durations are simulated in this paper, based on a two-dimensional High Order Spectral (HOS) numerical wave tank. A large number of configurations have been tested under unimodal and bimodal spectra. The investigation on the wave trains under single-peak spectrum indicates that although in conditions often referred as deep water (kph > π), the relative water depth has a significant influence on the probabilities of occurrence of extreme waves. A detailed analysis of the combined effect of Benjamin-Feir Index (BFI) and relative water depth is provided. However, the situation is more complex in real sea conditions, which may exhibit multimodal spectra. We focus in this study on long-crested bimodal spectra characterized by the same significant wave height Hs and mean zero-crossing period Tz of the sea states as the single-peak spectrum. The wave conditions under bimodal spectrum present milder extreme wave statistics than those under single-peak spectrum. In addition, mixed ocean systems with equivalent energy distribution (i.e., Sea-Swell Energy Ratio (SSER) is close to 1.0) and larger separation between partitions (i.e., Intermodal Distance (ID) > 0.10) are the less prominent to extreme waves appearance. The comparison of the mixed sea states and the corresponding single independent systems demonstrates that the complexity of the underlying physics of a given sea state (for instance the presence of modulational instability or other nonlinear process) cannot be deduced by an analysis limited to the statistical content of the combined sea state. The wave energy being distributed among frequencies plays a major role. Additionally, Gram-Charlier distribution can accurately predict the probability of large waves (1.5 < H/Hs < 2.0) compared to the MER distribution, but it underestimates the statistics of the wave height distribution when H/Hs is larger than 2.0 for both single-peak and bimodal states.

Domaines: Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]

Lei Wang, Jinxuan Li, Shuxue Liu, Guillaume Ducrozet. Statistics of long-crested extreme waves in single and mixed sea states. Ocean Dynamics, 2021, 71 (1), pp.21-42. ⟨10.1007/s10236-020-01418-9⟩. ⟨hal-03124379⟩